Kusadasi has changed over the last thirty years and this is the first time I have revisited it since I used to live there. The main street (Barbarossa Street) up from the harbor is prettier than before, with trumpet vines climbing up the palm trees in the middle of the street. They lead the way to what is now the centre of the town- what is called Bar Street - for obvious reasons and the parallel Food street. If you wander up to the old gate which was formerly used as a police station, and turn left, then take the first right, you will come across a doner kebab place that sells chicken doner kebabs for 3 liras which is 6 liras cheaper than in the restaurants on the main tourist drag. In fact it pays to wander around the back streets and check out the places where Turks eat. You can't get lost as the sea is an easy reference point.
As you walk up Barbarossa St you will find The China Garden on your right and after it a small turning and steps. If you go up 16 of these you will find the Turgut Pansiyon, and you can find a room with a bathroom (toilet and hand-held shower) for 20 liras per person a night (about 10 Euros per person). It doesn't have A/C or fans, but was cool enough to sleep even in the heat wave of August 2012.
Ozcan café/restaurant on the same side of Barbarossa street is a good place to relax, a family-run doner place which boasts that it has the best doner in town. It does have some very good sauces to put on them- a tomato and chilli one for those who love spicy food and a yoghurt and garlic one to tone down the spiciness of the other.
The China Garden has, in my opinion, over-stretched itself offering all types of Southern Asian cuisine as well as traditional Irish and English breakfasts. The chef is Turkish, and the menu extensive, which suggests that the sauces come ready-made. When I sampled the buffet there it was difficult to find meat in the sauces although there were plenty of thickly sliced onions. It's OK if you don't know what the food on offer should taste like.
You can party until dawn in the town, and Ladies' Beach is one of the best on this Aegean coast. You get there by dolmus (minivan) for a few cents, and these mini vans can be stopped anywhere along their routes. Transport is very cheap in Turkey and you can get form Istanbul to Kusadasi for 34 Euros or 70 Turkish liras.
Kusadasi is also close to the ancient site of Ephesus and the museum in Selcuk which houses the statue of Artemis/Diana, which is one of the seven wonders of the ancient world. You can also visit the House of the Virgin Mary which has been recognized by the Vatican as her last resting place.
Kusadasi has something to offer everyone and has become a favourite retirement place for Europeans- but don't let that put you off- it appeals to all ages!
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